‘Every Chef Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on List of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.